Overview
Cuba swings to a different rhythm, and at first it can be hard to get the beat. Opinions are divided on the effect of Castro, 40 years of US blockade and the collapse of the Soviet Union. They have health care, education, food and work but Cubans are still not free to say what they think.
Fortunately, the country has undergone a transformation since it opened its doors to global tourism in the 1990s. Staying at a casa particular (a private home with rooms to rent) gives the traveller a glimpse of life for the average Cubano, and opens up parts of the country that were once inaccessible or off-limits. It also frees up more money to enjoy the raucous nightlife that made Havana famous.
The country’s heritage is in safe hands. Historic Havana and Trinidad, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites, have undergone painstaking restoration and preservation. Walking around them is like a trip back in time.
The concept of ‘ecotourism’ is catching on here, and in this respect, the blockade has helped. Cuba has not suffered a half century of reckless expansion along its beautiful coastline, and there are countless pristine beaches waiting to be explored.
General Information
Northwest Caribbean.
Area
110,860 sq km (42,803 sq miles).
Population
11.3 million (UN estimate 2005).
Population Density
102 per sq km.
Capital
Havana. Population: 2.2 million (2006).
Government
Socialist Republic. Gained independence from Spain in 1898.
Cuba is the largest Caribbean island, about the size of England, and the most westerly of the Greater Antilles group, lying 145km (90 miles) south of Florida. A quarter of the country is fairly mountainous. West of Havana is the narrow Sierra de los Organos, rising to 750m (2,461ft) and containing the Guaniguanicos hills in the west. South of the Sierra is a narrow strip of 2,320 sq km (860 sq miles) where the finest Cuban tobacco is grown. The Trinidad Mountains, starting in the centre, rise to 1,100m (3,609ft) in the east. Encircling the port of Santiago are the rugged mountains of the Sierra Maestra. A quarter of the island is covered with mountain forests of pine and mahogany.
Language
The official language is Spanish.
Religion
Roman Catholic majority. There are also minority Afro-Cuban religions.
Time
GMT - 5 (GMT - 4 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October.)
Social Conventions
A handshake is the normal form of greeting. Cubans generally address each other as compañero, but visitors should use señor or señora. Some Cubans have two surnames after their Christian name and the first surname is the correct one to use. Normal courtesies should be observed when visiting someone’s home and a small gift may be given if invited for a meal. Cuban men rarely wear shorts away from the beach. Visitors doing so are not frowned upon, but they may receive the odd sideways glance. Women should cover their legs and shoulders if visiting churches. Cuban women tend to dress up for evenings out.
Electricity
110/230 volts AC, 60Hz. American-style flat two-pin plugs are generally used, except in certain large hotels where the European round two-pin plug is standard.
Head of State
Fidel Castro Ruz, premier 1959-76, president since 1976. Acting Head of State: Raul Castro since 2006.
Passport / Visa
YesYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYesYes
Passport Note
Persons of Cuban origin who are nationals of other countries must travel with a Cuban passport if they left Cuba after 1970.
Neither visa exemptions nor Tourist Visa Card facilities are applicable to foreign passport holders born in Cuba, unless holding a document proving withdrawal of Cuban citizenship.
Passports
Passports valid for at least six months after the departure date from Cuba required by all nationals referred to in the chart above without diplomatic representation in Cuba.
Visas
Required by all required by all nationals of countries referred to in the chart above except:
(a) transit passengers continuing their journey to a third country within 72 hours, provided they hold confirmed onward tickets and US$50 per day.
Note: Nationals not referred to in the chart above are advised to contact the embassy to check visa requirements (see Contact Addresses).
Visa Note
Exit permits are required by those whose stay in Cuba exceeds 90 days.
Types of Visa and Cost
Tourist Visa Card:£15. All other visas:£36 (plus a £15 processing fee.)
Validity
Tourist visa card: 30-day stay, within 180 days of issue; further 30-day extension available in Cuba. Business: 30 days.
Applications to:
Consulate (or consular section at embassy); see Contact Addresses. Application forms for tourist visa cards can be obtained from certain tour operators and travel agents or downloaded from the website of the Embassy of the Republic of Cuba in the UK (see Contact Addresses).
Working Days Required
Tourist visa card: One day (seven days for postal applications). Tourist visa: 48 hours. Business and Family visa: 72 hours (two weeks for postal applications). Journalist visa: six weeks.
Money
Currency
Convertible Peso (CUC; symbol CUC$) = 100 centavos. Notes are in denominations of CUC$100, 50, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of CUC$1, and 20, 5, 2 and 1 centavos. In the 1990s, the US Dollar was in common use throughout Cuba, and in Cuba’s foreign trade. In response, the USA put caps and heavy taxes on family remittances and punished international banks for breaking the US embargo. Cuba decided to slowly get rid of its Dollar reserves, banning the currency from general use and introduced the replacement CUC as a ‘tourist dollar’ under its control. Cuban nationals continue to be paid in the Cuban Peso (CUP). In some tourist areas, the Euro is also accepted. Hard currency (ie CUCs not CUPs) must be used in most transactions.
Currency Exchange
Money should be exchanged at state-run CADECAs (cheaper than banks) or international air- and seaports. Dollars attract a 10% surcharge on top of the normal commission (US citizens should bring Euros to exchange). All local currency must be exchanged again before leaving the country. Card transactions attract a surcharge (3 to 5%) - see below.
Credit/Debit Cards and ATMs
MasterCard and Visa are increasingly accepted, provided they are not issued by a US bank, or a bank with links to the USA, but hefty fees are often added. ATMs are still rare, but cash can be obtained in banks with non-US Visa credit and Visa debit cards. Cirrus/Maestro is not accepted.
Traveller's Cheques
US Dollar, Pounds Sterling and other major currencies are accepted; US Dollar cheques issued by US banks are not accepted. It is recommended to take cheques in a currency other than US Dollars.
Banking Hours
Mon-Fri 0830-1200 and 1330-1500, Sat 0830-1030. Hours may vary and banks may be open all day in larger cities.
Exchange Rate Indicators
| Date | Jul 07 |
| £1.00= | CUC$1.87 |
| $1.00= | CUC$0.93 |
| €1.00= | CUC$1.26 |
Transport
Getting Around By Air
A number of airlines under the CASCA banner operate regional flights within Cuba. Cubana (website: www.cubana.cu) and AeroCaribbean (website: www.aero-caribbean.com) are the principal carriers, operating flights between Havana and Santiago de Cuba, Holguin, Cayo Coco and Cayo Largo. Newcomer Aerogaviota (website: www.aerogaviota.com) has picked up some of the smaller routes and operates private charters. Aerotaxi operates ancient Russian bi-planes, and should be avoided if possible.
Getting Around by Rail
The national rail company is Ferrocarriles de Cuba, often shortened to Ferrocuba (tel: (7) 862 4888 or 861 4259 for train times in Havana or (22) 622 836 for train times in Santiago de Cuba). There is no official website, but further information is available from The Man in Seat Sixty-One (website: www.seat61.com/Cuba.htm). The principal rail route is from Havana to Santiago de Cuba. Some trains on this route have air conditioning and refreshments. There are also through trains from Havana to other towns. Previously, the rail network connected the vast majority of the country but has been badly affected by natural disasters and now only certain parts of the country are accessible by rail. The trains are slow and punctuality does not seem to be a priority, but journeys are scenic and relaxing.
Getting Around by Road
What traffic there is here drives on the right. Cubans are not allowed to own cars, and outside of major cities almost the only vehicles on the road are agricultural deliveries, whose drivers know their routes by heart. As a result, signposting is a low priority. Buy the best map available at home as they are in short supply here. Large sections of the autopista (motorway) are in a diabolical condition, potholed and poorly lit; to join or exit the motorway, drivers must often cross oncoming lanes, assuming lane markers exist. With heavy goods traffic concentrated on the motorway, many provincial primary roads are in fairly good condition. Always stop at level crossings, which are often unmarked and almost always un-gated. The lack of traffic makes Cuba a popular choice for cycling tours.
Coach/bus: Avoid the overcrowded public bus service provided by Astro. Instead, choose Viazul (tel: (7) 881 1413; website: www.viazul.cu), with daily well-appointed coaches connecting most major cities.
Car hire: All car hire companies are state-owned and badly organised. Prices are negotiable up to a point, but expect to be delayed when picking up the vehicle.
Regulations: Speed limits are 100kph (62mph) on the motorway, 90kph (56mph) on primary roads (highways), 60kph (37mph) on rural roads, 50kph (31mph) on urban roads and 40kph (25mph) near schools. Motorcycle traffic police and stationary check points are common, and they are usually very strict. Drivers must be aged 21 or over.
Documentation: Valid national driving licence required.
Getting Around Towns and Cities
Plentiful buses, minibuses and shared taxis criss-cross Havana, but are almost always overcrowded.
Taxis: Opt for a modern air-conditioned vehicle, or for special occasions a vintage American car (available at the best hotels). All official taxis have meters, but fares should be agreed before departure in ‘private taxis’ that are hailed on the street. The latter are often old Ladas with blacked-out windows (private taxis are illegal but informally tolerated and in general safe). Watch out for taxis with ‘broken’ meters, especially at airports, and in Old Havana. In view of serious accidents that have involved tourists, travellers should not use mopeds or the three-wheel coco-taxis that are seen around tourist areas.
Journey Times
The following chart gives approximate journey times (in hours and minutes) from Havana to other major towns in Cuba.
| | Air | Road |
| Varadero | 0.15 | 2.00 |
| Trinidad | 0.20 | 5.00 |
| Santiago de Cuba | 1.15 | 17.00 |
| Pinar del Rio | 0.15 | 2.00 |
Entertainment
Food and Drink
Surprisingly for an island so rich in marine life, fish and seafood rarely top the menu - most seafood is exported. Cuisine is a mix of Spanish and Afro-Caribbean, heavily reliant on rice, beans, chicken and pork. Fresh vegetables are hard to come by, and flavours are limited by the lack of available herbs and spices. Some of the best cooking, and often an illegal lobster or two, is found in paladares (small, private restaurants). In state-run establishments, service can be painfully slow and sometimes even surly.
National specialities:
• Soup made of chicken or black beans.
• Black beans & rice (known locally as Moors and Christians).
• Chicken or pork with rice, or occasionally french fries.
• Plantains, baked or fried.
• Omelettes, often stuffed with meat and/or cheese.
National drinks:
• Cuban coffee (very strong).
• Cuban beer (tasty, yet weak).
• Rum cocktails (especially the daiquiri, mojito and cuba libre).
Legal drinking age: There is no minimum drinking age, but buyers must be at least 16 years old to purchase alcohol.
Tipping: A 10% gratuity is appreciated.
Nightlife
Havana is renowned for its after-dark entertainment scene, and only the tip of the iceberg is visible to tourists on a short stay. Even medium-sized bars usually have a house band playing Cuban classics. The Casa de la Musica in Havana attracts tourists and locals alike, the latter distinguished by their accomplished salsa dance moves and ability to consume whole bottles of Varadero rum. The famous Tropicananightclub stages nightly open-air cabarets that are a throwback to the decadent days before the Revolution. The Cabaret Parisien at the Hotel Nacional is similar, and both attract tour groups on ‘day and night’ packages from the coastal beach resorts.
Theatre, opera and ballet are staged all year round in Havana and seats are very cheap. Cinemas show films in Spanish, but some have subtitles. Santiago de Cuba is the spiritual home of Son - the music that gave birth to salsa, and regular live sessions are on offer at the Casa de la Trova. In beach resorts, nightlife tends to mimic what is on offer in Havana, with varying degrees of success. Varadero has a thriving scene, but in the smaller resorts (many of which are all-inclusive) most entertainment is planned and formulaic.
Shopping
Those hoping to spend, spend, spend will be disappointed in Cuba. There are a few luxury shops in Old Havana and in large hotels like the Habana Libre. Some offer tax-free purchases, but stock is generally uninspiring. Cigars: Cuba makes the world’s finest cigars. Buy the real thing at factories such as RealFábrica de Tabacos Partagás in Havana, which also sells fabulously ornate cigar boxes. Cigars from street vendors will probably be fakes or factory rejects, and may be confiscated at the airport. Castro’s favourite brand (before he gave up) was Cohiba, Ché Guevara favoured Montecristos, and before he put the blockade in place, JFK stocked up on Upmans. Rum: Santiago de Cuba was once home to the Bacardi family distillery, but Havana Club is now the most famous Cuban rum. Good though it is, connoisseurs prefer Varadero. The rich seven-year old variety is sipped like fine malt, while younger and lighter blends are used for cocktails. Souvenirs and other gifts: Ché Guevara merchandise is everywhere. In the capital, perfumes in fine ceramic and glass bottles can be found at Habana 1791.
Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0900-1700, Sun 0900-1200.
Top things to see
• Head to the Plaza de Armas in Old Havana for a glimpse of colonial majesty at the Palacio de los Capitanes Generales, former residence of the Spanish Crown’s representatives.
• Enjoy wonderful views of this UNESCO World Heritage Site, from the rooftop bar of Old Havana’s Museo Nacional de Historia Natural.
• Wander around the Castillo de la Real Fuerza. The oldest of Havana’s three forts is still standing because it was to all intents and purposes built in the wrong place.
• Take a tour of the Capitolio in Havana’s centre. Built by a dictator to mimic Washington DC’s Capitol (though the detailing on Havana’s version is finer), it housed a puppet parliament until the Revolution.
• Visit the Museo de la Revolución for a historical context of modern Cuba. Outside is the Granma, a cabin cruiser built for 12 people. In 1956, 80 exiled rebels (Castro and Ché among them) came perilously close to sinking the overcrowded yacht, as they sought to return to Cuba.
• Head for Pinar del Río, arguably Cuba’s most beautiful province. The outstanding feature must be the mogotes (oddly rounded limestone mountains, covered in lush vegetation). The caves here, notably the Cueva del Indio, are well worth a visit, with stalactites and stalagmites and underground rivers.
• Visit revolutionary Santa Clara, and the monument, museum and mausoleum of Ché Guevara. His body was only returned from Bolivia in 1997, 30 years after his capture and execution. In 1959, he and 300 rebels defeated 3,000 of Batista’s troops here, leading to the dictator’s flight just days later.
• Feel the history in colonial Trinidad, founded in 1514. Locals ride horses down cobbled streets past houses painted in pastel colours. Elegant mansions are now museums in this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Enjoy great views of the Valley of the Sugar Mills (Valle de los Ingenios) from the Torre de Manaca Iznaga (50m/165ft), an old slave watch tower.
• See the country’s best musicians and dancers at work in Santiago de Cuba.Visit the Museo Emilio Bacardí, which contains the rum magnate’s collection of antiques and fine art, and the Moncada Barracks, where Castro launched an abortive uprising in 1953. The Castillo del Morro is now a museum of piracy.
Further information: Websites for most museums and monuments can be found through the government’s web portals, www.cnpc.cult.cu and www.ohch.cu.
See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.
Top things to do
• Follow in famous footsteps. Have a beer at Castillo de Farnes, where Ché and Castro toasted the success of the Revolution, and raise a glass to Hemingway at his old haunt La Bodeguita del Medio (website: www.bazar-virtual.com/palmares).
• Try rolling cigars at one of Cuba’s tobacco factories such as the Real Fábrica de Tabacos Partagás in Havana(website: www.habanos.com), or others in Pinar del Río and Trinidad.
• Take a stroll along the Malecón, the sea wall that links Old Havana to Vedado, and is popular with fisherman, families and couples.
• Live the high life in Havana’s Vedado district. The Hotel Nacional has hosted gangsters and film stars and is well-placed for Carnaval processions along the Malecón (website: www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com).
• Soak up some sun on Cuba’s beaches: from Playas del Este near Havana, where the locals play, to exclusive island resorts like Cayo Coco where the only Cubans around are waiters and chambermaids. Varadero is a lively resort that combines beach life with nightlife, for locals and foreigners.
• Explore the deep. There are 30 dive sites at Varadero alone. One of the world’s biggest coral reefs is offshore at Cayo Coco, and there are more reefs around Isla de la Juventud,Stevenson’s inspiration for Treasure Island.
• Hike the Sierra Maestra, dominated by Cuba’s highest mountain Pico Turquino, or trek the marshes and forests of the Zapata Peninsula, teeming with bird, mammal and reptile wildlife.
• Take an emotional journey to the museum at Playa Girón, scene of the US-backed ‘Bay of Pigs’ invasion in 1961. Touching personal effects of those killed, a harrowing film from the time, and CIA battle plans captured when it all went wrong tell a sad story.
• Saddle up and go for a gallop through the scenic sugarcane fields around Trinidad, or the hills and valleys of Pinar del Río.
• Make friends with the locals. Make time for at least a night or two in a casa particular, eat in paladares rather than state-run restaurants, and strike up conversation whenever possible. Cubans are polite, educated, fun, and just dying to make contact with people from other countries.
See Contact Addresses for further tourist information.
Business
Statistics
• GDP: US$40.1 billion (2005).
•Main exports: Sugar, nickel, tobacco, fish, citrus, coffee and medical technology.
•Main imports: Food, petroleum, chemicals, machinery and equipment.
•Main trade partners: Venezuela, China, Canada, Spain and The Netherlands.
Economy
In recent years Cuba has tried to diversify away from the production of sugar, which has seen decades of ever-decreasing returns. On the back of healthy exports, cigar production has increased 50% since 1998. Biotechnology may yet rescue Cuba from its travails. In 2006, the US government waived the embargo to allow a Cuban cancer treatment to be tested in California.
In spite of the blockade, tourism continues to grow, and is a key source of hard currency. Strictly speaking, this is the country’s only significant service industry, but Cuban doctors and teachers working abroad in return for raw materials such as oil are significant contributors to the country’s continued survival.
Curiously, the USA recently joined the list of Cuba’s top 10 trading partners - Washington allows US firms to sell agricultural products to Cuba (US$350 million in 2006) but still forbids imports of any kind.
Business Etiquette
Courtesy is expected and hospitality should not be lavish, being offered to groups rather than individuals. Best months for business visits are November to April.
Office hours: Mon-Fri 0830-1230 and 1330-1630. Some offices also open on alternate Saturdays from 0800-1700.
Commercial Information
Cámara de Comercio de la República de Cuba
Calle 21, No 661, esq a A, Vedado, Havana, Cuba
Tel: (7) 551 452/931.
Website: www.camaracuba.cubaweb.cu
Buró de Convenciones de Cuba,COCAL (Information on Conferences/Conventions)
Hotel Neptuno, 3° piso, Calle M entre la 17 y 19, Vedado, Havana, Cuba
Tel: (7) 204 8273.
Website: www.cubameeting.co.cuorwww.cocalonline.com
Cubanacán UK Ltd (Information on Conferences/Conventions)
Unit 49, Skylines Village, Limeharbour, London E14 9TS, UK
Tel: (020) 7536 8175/6.
Website: www.cubanacan.co.uk
Conferences & Conventions
Modern facilities are available at Havana International Conference Center, Pabexpo, ExpoCuba and the Varadero Plaza America.
Communications
Telephone
Country code: 53. Phonecards for both internal and external calls are readily available from shops and kiosks. Some calls must be made through the international operator, and may be subject to delays.
Mobile Telephone
Roaming agreements exist with most international mobile phone companies. For extended stays, consider buying a Cuban mobile and SIM card for internal calls. The mobile network is often more reliable than landlines, though coverage is far from universal.
Internet
Available at hotels and some Internet cafes. Some websites are censored.
Media
Expect to be starved of information in Cuba. All media is state-controlled and Western newspapers are not available. When Castro is making a speech, it can be an eerie experience to stand in the street and hear the same sound from every television on the block - it may be rubbish, but any information is better than none. Journalists must operate within the confines of laws against anti-government propaganda. The insulting of officials carries penalties of up to three years in prison. Private ownership of electronic media is prohibited by the constitution, and foreign news agencies must hire local journalists only through government offices.
Post
Letters to Western Europe can take several weeks. It is advisable to use the airmail service.
Post office hours: Mon-Sat 0800-1800; the large Havana post office (Plaza San Francisco) is open until 2200. Many luxury hotels have small post offices on site, or can sell stamps and post letters out of hours.
Press
• Papers are in Spanish, although the Communist Party daily newspaper, Granma, publishes a weekly edition, called Granma International, in English, German, Portuguese and French.
• There is also a fortnightly international newspaper, Prisma, published in Spanish and English.
Radio
• News, music and sport provider Radio Rebelde.
• Radio Reloj which broadcasts 24-hour news.
• Radio Habana Cuba, an external broadcaster broadcasting in Spanish, English, French and Portuguese.